Are you craving a taste of culinary history? Then you need to visit Uncle Lee’s Hokkien mee stall, now nestled in Jinjang Selatan’s Kedai Kopi Seng Wai. But here’s where it gets controversial: in a world of modern twists, Uncle Lee’s Hokkien mee is a rare, unapologetically traditional gem—and it might just be the last of its kind.
Uncle Lee, the maestro behind the wok, has returned to his craft after a brief hiatus, following his relocation from Taman Kok Lian. Once uncertain about his future, he’s now back in action, his seasoned wok sizzling over a charcoal flame. With over five decades of experience, honed at the legendary Kim Lian Kee—the 1927 pioneer of Hokkien mee in Petaling Street—Uncle Lee’s skills are nothing short of artistry. His journey, spanning 13 years of independence and countless plates of noodles, has led him to this new spot, where tradition reigns supreme.
And this is the part most people miss: What sets Uncle Lee’s Hokkien mee apart isn’t just the taste—it’s the technique. Unlike many stalls where the sauce pools on the plate, his noodles are coated in a rich, smoky sauce, reminiscent of a carbonara. This requires precision: balancing the wok’s heat, the charcoal’s intensity, and the timing to ensure every strand of noodle is infused with flavor. The result? A dish that’s slightly less glossy than others, signaling a complexity beyond the sweetness of dark soy sauce. His secret weapon? Dried flounder fish powder, which deepens the braising liquid, and his homemade siong tong—a broth simmered all day with chicken bones, pork bones, and prawn shells.
But it’s the unexpected ingredients that truly define Uncle Lee’s dish. Pig liver, once a staple in Hokkien mee but now rarely seen, makes a bold appearance here. Is this a nostalgic nod to the past, or a divisive choice in today’s culinary landscape? You’ll have to decide for yourself. Meanwhile, his use of fried lard croutons is subtle yet impactful—each piece fluffy, not over-fried, adding bursts of fragrance without overwhelming the dish.
For RM12, this plate is a steal, especially when compared to the lackluster offerings elsewhere. The sambal, fragrant with chillies and belacan, complements rather than competes with the noodles. While I’ve only indulged in the Hokkien mee, whispers from fellow foodies suggest his moonlight hor fun and Cantonese fried noodles are equally stellar.
Here’s the catch: Uncle Lee has no disciple to carry on his legacy. With time ticking, this master of Hokkien mee may soon retire, taking his ‘old taste’ with him. So, gather your family or your foodie crew and head to Jinjang Selatan before it’s too late. Located opposite the Chinese school, this spot is easy to find—but the experience? Priceless.
Thought-provoking question: In a world chasing innovation, do we risk losing the soul of traditional dishes like Uncle Lee’s Hokkien mee? Share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear your take!
Details:
Kuala Lumpur Petaling Street Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee
Kedai Kopi Seng Wai
3, Jalan Jambu Gajus, Jinjang Selatan, Kuala Lumpur
Open: 11am to 9pm. Closed every Tuesday.
Tel: 012-2957279
Facebook: @KLPetalingStreetHokkienMee (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063980228050)
This is an independent review. The writer paid for the meal.
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